Surf Report

Bethany Hamilton is a professional surfer. Her story is my motivation for the summer. I suck at surfing. I think you need some level of confidence, which I lack. Besides being afraid of sharks, I got a black eye right when I was starting to really enjoy the sport. Now as I finish a wave, I’ll always get nervous frantically looking for the board to make sure it’s not headed towards my face. Bethany’s story was depicted in the movie Soul Surfer, a young surfer who loses an arm to a shark. She was 13 at the time and spent one week in the hospital. Determined to get back to surfing, she got back on her board less than a month later. She learned how to paddle with one arm and it was not too long before she started competing again. Impressive doesn’t describe it. It’s almost unbelievable. It shows where there’s a will, there’s a way. I have been partial to the stand-up paddle board but I’m going to give surfing another try this summer. Here are some clips from Bethany’s first competition after the shark incident. ~Dutch

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